What is model railroad bench work?
Benchwork is the support structure that you build your model railroad layout on. It could be as simple as a piece of plywood or MDF on a table, or it could be more complex such as open grid work with "l" girder construction.
Benchwork usually consists of legs, some sort of framework or structure, sub road bed which is attached to the framework, the roadbed, and track which are laid on the sub roadbed.
Why build benchwork?
Benchwork will give you a permanent structure to which you can attach your sub roadbed, track and scenery. With the proper planning it will allow you to consider future expansion right from the beginning, which will make it much easier when the time comes.
When should you build your bench work?
As soon as you are far enough along in the design stage to know pretty much what your railroad will look like, you can begin to build your bench work. Be sure to take into consideration your track plan and any scenery elements that may effect the placement of the girders or the cross joists.
Where should build your bench work?
You could pre-cut most everything in your shop if you have one, or have the timber yard cut it for you. You can assemble as much as possible in your shop, however the major portion of the bench work will most likely need to be assembled in the room where the railroad will be.
How do you build model railroad bench work?
Start by doing research to determine which type of bench-work is best suited to your situation. If your layout is a temporary or seasonal layout, you may get along just fine with a piece of plywood or MDF. If you are planning a more permanent display or are going to include scenery, you will want a more substantial structure such as "l" girder construction.
The open grid work will allow more flexibility and will contribute to a more realistic looking railroad.
Visit other layouts in your area and take notes on what you did or did not like. You can learn from their mistakes and their successes as well.
You could combine some of both techniques by using what is called the cookie cutter method. This is where you use a flat board over open bench work and cut out the sub road bed directly from the flat board and leave the rest of the board in place. You would then raise the sub roadbed up on risers to what ever level you wanted. The risers are attached to the joists.
You could also cut out areas where lakes or rivers would be. With the cookie cutter method you are still limited by the flat board. It will hinder both maintenance and wiring and also limit future expansion.
The simplest type of open grid work is the butted grid work method. This requires 1"x4" or 25mm x 100mm timber to be used both for the girders and also for the cross joists. The cross joists are glued and screwed together between the girders approximately every 24" or 600mm apart. You can use this butted grid work to either fasten your flat board, cookie cutter top or you could attach the risers directly to the open grid work.
Legs can be made from 2"x2" or 50mm x 50mm timber and bolted to the girders, or what is called the keeper joists, with 1/4" or 6mm x 75mm carriage bolts, nuts and washers. As an alternate method you could screw the legs to the bench work using wood screws.
The "l" girder open bench work method is really easy and will allow the best overall support for your railroad. It will also allow for the best overall finished appearance when your railroad is completed.
The "l" girders are made by gluing and screwing a 1"x2" or 25mm x 50mm piece of timber to the edge of a 1"x4" or 25mm x 100mm piece of timber. With the "l" inverted so that the 1"x2" or 25mm x 50mm is on the top. The 2"x2" or 50mm x 50mm legs can be bolted to the girders. Once the legs are attached, 1"x2" or 25mm x 50mm cross braces can be attached to the legs to hold the two girders up approximately parallel to each other.
An alternate method would be to bolt keeper joists to the top of the legs and then attach the cross braces to the legs. You would then stand up the legs with the keeper joists and fasten the "l" girder to the bottom of the keeper joists, from the bottom of the 1"x2" or 25mm x 50mm which forms the top of the "l" girder. The rest of the joists would be attached as described below.
The joists are made of 1"x4" or 25mm x 100mm timber and are placed on top of the "l" girders. They are screwed in place from under the 1"x2" or 25mm x 50mm timber on the top of the "l" girder, up into the bottom edge of the joists. The joists can be placed at any distance from each other as necessary for the scenery or track risers, however every 24" or 600mm should be sufficient.
Next comes the sub roadbed. Probably the easiest way of determining the size and location of the sub roadbed is to lay the track out, or make a full size drawing. You can use the full size drawing to cut out paper patterns which can be transferred to the plywood or other sub roadbed material.
The sub roadbed can then be cut on a band saw or with a sabre saw. The sub roadbed should be wide enough to allow for the track or multiple tracks, cork or other roadbed, and around 1" or 25mm on either side of the track to allow you to attach the scenery to the sub roadbed.
Once the sub roadbed pieces are cut they can be attached to the risers with cleats attached to them. You can splice the pieces of sub roadbed together with a scrap piece of the same width and thickness as the sub roadbed. Screws and glue can be used to attach them together.
Materials, tools and other equipment
1) 1"x4" or 25mm x 100mm timber (for girders, joists and risers)
2) 1"x2" or 25mm x 50mm timber (for the top of the "l" girders and cross braces)
3) 2"x2" or 50mm x 50mm timber (for legs)
4) carpenters glue and wood screws
5) 1/4"x3" or 6mm x 75mm carriage bolts, nuts, and washers
6) Pencil and paper, and drawing equipment such as a scale ruler, compass or string and pencil, framing square, etc.
7) Carpentry tools including a hand saw, saber or jigsaw, screw driver, and various wood clamps, etc.
Be sure to read our article on model railroading safety when working with tools.
